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Arizona.

I was forced there because of work obligations.

And… guess what? I’m already planning my next trip (well, in theory)!

New York City can be a cold and frigid place. I was only happy to go to Arizona because, in comparison to NYC, it was warm and I was getting away. (And here is a tip for the frugal 20 something year old traveler: Find a job that pays for you to travel, because I only spent $20 out-of-pocket. Thanks Job!)

Holding onto the arm rest of my violent chair (I hate planes!) I fantasized about what Arizona would be like.  I envisioned this warm vacation spa where I could sit under the sun and relax.

And I was right! I arrived at the Tucson International Airport, waited for my coworker to use the gender neutral bathroom (the family bathroom) and rushed my way passed the moving doors and into the warm crisp air.

A huge cactus welcomed me and I greeted it back, hopping around like a 5-year-old just discovering he was gay. I was so happy to have Vitamin D lend me some endorphins and plant a smile on my face.

Tucson was quiet.

I had just finished doing research on the Mexican/United States border prior to arriving in Tucson so I was expecting to see a huge Mexican cultural influence; mariachis greeting me and maybe a taco stand. But, it was not Queens, NY and so I got none of that. Oh well. I did eat Mexican food that night though it was like a really exaggerated taco bell. It was good, but it wasn’t the “authentic” Mexican food that my Mexican friends had told me about… Pozole, Tamales and Cemitas. Yum.

That being said, Tucsonans do pride themselves on their Mexican culture, which they call Sonoran. It’s a lot different then the Mexican cultures that have migrated to New York City.

Gay Travel in Tucson.

And being gay in Tucson is apparently a lot more acceptable than in Phoenix (which shocked me, but that’s for another article). I went to Colors, which is a gay owned and themed restaurant. It truly seemed like a welcoming place for LGBTQ people and not just a flaming stereotype. However, it certainly was not intergenerational. At 23, the waiter and I were the youngest ones there, and at least by 10 years.

One cannot go to a gay restaurant and leave without an interesting story:

As soon as I felt my age, I immediately had to lock myself in the bathroom and send texts complaining to my New York City constituents that there was no one my age and I would not be able to partake in the hotel rendezvous I envisioned.

The door wasn’t locked.

An older gay man, about 55, comes in and spots me huddled up in the corner by the sink, texting away. “What a pleasant surprise, a cute young twink.” He startles me, but I like a good flirt. I stand up and apologize, and tell him he can use the bathroom. He, jokingly (I think), invites me to stay and watch. I decline but do accept his offer for a hug.

Hugging a random stranger in a public bathroom. Only in Tucson, Arizona?

Two Vodka Cranberries later, I’m buzzed and it’s time to leave. The older man stops me, and introduces me to his older friend. I feel so beautiful. My competition, the other 23-year-old (the waiter) comes by, and referring to me, says “Are you messing with my customer?”  Ah, I love him now.  We all share a good laugh, my self esteem is high, but my coworker gives me the look and I must leave.

I should have gotten the waiter’s number. Oh well.

But yes, Colors was fun. I did do some touristy things while in Tucson, like visit the Saguaro National Park. That was… cute. After seeing Cacti for over an hour, I had my fix. I would go again, but it’s best used for a jog or walk with a love one. I was in a car with my co worker and a very quiet older, and awkward, lady.

All in all, Tucson… 2 thumbs up!

Next stop: Phoenix!

Bryan Pacheco, Contributing Writer

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Los Angeles is full of interesting housing accommodations and yet I have found that they are incredibly difficult to find. Luckily we have stumbled upon a reasonably-priced, wacky and spiritual space just 15 minutes (by car) from the beach. Welcome to The Circle.

The Circle, owned by the fashion designer, Sanni, is a spiritual and artistic bazaar of a B&B. For those seeking to relax, you have come to the right spot.

Though I have never met Sanni in person, she comes off as an artist who is both down-to-earth and incredibly business savvy. Take a look at her site and you will understand what I mean.

Everyone has access to the main house living room, kitchen and dining room. You may also enjoy the makeshift outdoor fire pit, avocado trees and delicious plums and nectarines that decorate the backyard. If you happen to have a lot of time on your hands, pull out your bathing suit and sunbathe by the large koi pond.

Like a hostel you may find yourself completely alone or surrounded by people from all over the world. We lived at The Circle for four months and lived with a twenty-something year old from Ireland, a 60+ year old woman who prided herself on being an “actress back in the day,” an insightful lesbian woman from Australia who worked for an LGBTQ group, a photographer, a practically invisible Canadian (he was never around), an auto car dealer/theft, and a wonderful woman whose serious case of wanderlust forced her to move to Bali and leave all of her things behind.

…This is by far a space that you will never forget.

THE CAVE
If you are daring and take pleasure in confined spaces, perhaps you should try out the Cave. The owner must have converted this pool with the intent of creating the ideal playroom for her young children. Perhaps it was even prepared to reflect a meditation cave. Either way it surely is an interesting initiative but, to be honest, I would never put anyone that I truly cared about in such tight quarters. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t give it a try for a few nights. If you freak out about the spiders, you can always sleep in the main house.
Price per night: $45

THE TREE HOUSE
The Tree house is the most affordable and unique space at The Circle, maybe even in Los Angeles. Located in the back of the property, the tree house hovers harmoniously over the Koi pond. Though the space is a little tight (2 people max.) you always have the option of lowering the side wall/deck to let some air in (and sunbath).
Price per night: $65

THE FLOATING BED ROOM
At first glance the floating bed is enticing. You quickly imagine being rocked to sleep in this contraption… among other things. This space is the largest offered at The Circle, with a private backyard, which also doubles as the owner’s design studio. The only downside, as the owners designs are housed in this space you will have to be creative about where you store things during your stay.
Price per night: $85

THE MAIN HOUSE
And then there is my personal favorite room, the main house which comes with a private bathroom. This is one of the smaller spaces and yet it reminds me of a true home, a nice stable bed, a window to let air in, no clutter, and direct access to the main house kitchen, living room, and dining room.
Price per night: $100

The Greyhound Bus
Do you miss road trips on Greyhound buses? Sanni has converted a massive 40 foot bus into a functional living space with two bunk beds and a futon. Though the space emits less light then the other rooms in The Circle, it is the perfect place to hang out and watch a movie… There is a movie projector hook-up inside!
Price per night: $85

You will be happy to know that the owner, Sanni, is incredibly generous and flexible with the cost of each room. If you are planning on staying for an extended period of time (a week or more), don’t hesitate to ask for a better deal. This is one of the major highlights of staying here.

There is no shortage of things to do at Maho Bay Camps.

To navigate through the list of possibilities visit the activities kiosk by the check-in desk. There you’ll find brochures, schedules, and a helpful staff member to get you started.

If you’ve always wanted to get a closer look at the ocean floor, consider getting your P.A.D.I. scuba diving certification. Full training is $425 or, if you’re already certified, go on a day trip (starting at $65).

One of the more original water sports options is guided night snorkeling, but there is also kayaking ($35 ½ day), wind surfing ($75/3 hours or $95/2 hour lessons), and sailboat rentals ($150/day).

If you want to stay dry, start your day with a yoga class ($15) and follow-up with one of the art programs. You might be interested in the popular glass blowing class ($70) where you’ll have the opportunity to make several glass sculptures.  Other classes include a fabric batik class ($65), kids watercolor ($35), and ceramics ($45).

Self-guided (low cost) options include swimming over to Francis Bay where you’re likely to see sea turtles, or a hike on one of the surrounding trails (check out The Trail Hiking Guide to The Hiking Trail).  Then come back by 5:30 for $2 beers, free popcorn, and the best sunset viewing around.

Where to Eat
There are three dining options at Maho: self-catering, the camp restaurant, or town restaurants.

One great idea came from savvy Maho veterans we met. They arrived with extra suitcases and coolers filled with purchases from their home-town gourmet markets. Another group  of extrovert baby-boomers from Florida set up party headquarters whipping up cappuccinos with their own espresso machine and knocking down margaritas from their own blender.  This approach works best if you’re traveling in a large group that with people who can help transport provisions up innumerable steps.  Or, alternatively, you may reserve cabins in the ‘A’ section along the lower walkway.

Faced with a climb up 167 steps to our cabin, we relied on compact and nutritious stables – rice and beans.  The camp store enhanced our menu with a standard selection of tinned food, frozen meat and fish, and fresh vegetables, eggs and breads.  Prices — twice as much as back home – were about the same as we found at the town grocers (see What To Bring).  The store was also was well-stocked with toiletries and beach clothes.

The camp restaurant, however, was enticing for various reasons.

First, the kitchen set-up in the cabin was decidedly tent-camping standard.  Water needed to be hauled up several flights of stairs; counters had to be maintained spotless to discourage midnight visits by un-welcomed intruders; and the stove had to be kept closed against rain blowing in through the kitchen’s unshuttered screen windows.

Secondly, the camp restaurant served cuisine that was generally acclaimed as delicious and reasonable.  Each night four or five entrees, including a vegetarian dish, are offered according to the day’s theme (Caribbean Cafe, Asian Delight, and Prime-Rib Night, etc.)  Dinner entrees including salad bar, bread and tea range from $14- $22.  Breakfast and lunch are also served.  But, most importantly, the Restaurant Pavilion, like the beach, proved to be an easy relaxed location to enjoy the ocean panorama and to meet fellow campers.  Substituting for a common campfire, the Restaurant Pavilion drew campers together in conversation and contemplation of the sunset and stars.

By dusk, the third option – dining in town – invariably seemed a stretch too far.  However, it would have been an easy foray on Fridays and Saturdays when Hamilton’s Taxi Service transports a load of campers in his trolley truck into Cruz Bay at 5:00 just in time for Happy Hour and back to camp by 10:00 in time for lights-out.  Had we stayed longer than three nights, we would have taken the $15 ride (or a $30 RT taxi) to try the town’s restaurants.

What to Bring
Pristine uninhabited beaches and serene wildlands bound St. John allowing nature to provide fruit to its inhabitant. Right? No. St. John is an island with few natural resources meaning most things will cost ten times more then on the mainland. Here, one is faced with the challenge of bringing whatever they can from home without bringing too much.

Nothing is more expensive on St. John or at Maho Bay Camps then food so bring a heavy stash of non-perishable provisions (beans, rice, pasta, etc.). You might want to pack an old suitcase full of food items from your local Costco or $.99 Only store.

Maho is illuminated only by handful of solar panels at night so a flashlight will be an essential packing item. Don’t forget rubber-soled shoes to keep you from sliding down the slippery deck.

For most guests, the nearest drinking water will be down a few flights of stairs. While this will make for a nice workout, others might want to consider bringing a recycled bottle to make the trips fewer and farther in between.

If you happen to suffer from deliciously sweet skin like the writers of So Elsewhere, make sure to bring deet-free bug spray and a mosquito net. You might also want to consider bringing a couple of sarongs for the beach that will double as a scarf, and drapery to cover up some unattractive spots in the “rustic” cottages.

Remember to bring a lock to keep all of your inexpensive but revered items safe in your cabin!

How To Get There
Once you arrive in the US Virgin Islands you’ll have little problem getting to the island of St. John and Maho Bay Campground.

From the airport take a taxi to Red Hook (45 minute ride) or Downtown Charlotte Amalie (15 minute ride) and one of the hourly ferries to St. John. The Red Hook ferry is the most frequent (one every hour) and will get you to St. John in twenty (20) minutes.

We you arrive to St. John, look for Mr. Frett. He owns/owns his own taxi shuttle between Cruz Bay and Maho Bay. Call Maho Bay Camps (340-776-6240) to find out what his schedule is.

If you happen to miss Mr. Frett you can take any of the other taxis to Maho. However, if you don’t have to rush we recommend hanging around Downtown Cruz Bay as Mr. Frett has the best rates.

Alexandra Garcia, Editor/Writer
Morgane Veronique Richardson, Editor/Writer
Bibi Jordan, Contributor

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Like Thoreaux’s Walden Pond in Concord, Massachusetts, Concordia Eco-Tents is a place to immerse yourself in nature.

Surrounded by the Virgin Island’s National Park, Concordia offers many options for exploring by foot, fin or 4-wheel drive.  Contained in each cabin is a concise guide to island trails, beaches and roads by Pam Gaffin who also guides small groups of six around the island.

In the spirit of sustainable energy, we opted for foot-powered transportation and never ran out of options.

Salt Pond Beach, a long wide white sand beach considered one of the island’s best snorkeling spots, is a quick hike down a well-maintained goat trail through groves of cactus and mangroves.  On the right side is coral and reef teaming with colorful fish.  In the middle is sea grass, attracting turtles, conch, and sting ray.   The abundance of fish attracts flocks of seabirds, in particular pelicans providing constant entertainment as they feast on schools of minnows on the water’s edge.

At the far end of the beach, two diverging trails give way to two different hikes. A 15-minute walk from Salt Pond Beach is Ram Head, the island’s most ancient rock (90 million years old) with breathtaking views.  The other path leads first to Salt Pond where locals gather natural sea and then continues to Drunk Bay.  With no protective reef, Drunk Bay is pounded by waves that roll unbroken all the way from Africa to these rocky shores.  This site is NOT suggested for snorkeling but it is superb for beach-combing.  Look for the coral menagerie – large (4 feet and up) silhouettes of people and animals created over the years by fellow explorers.

Further ramblings along 4WD roads or into the little town of Coral Bay are options for those with rented cars ($60/day from St. John Car Rental Cruz Bay, (340) 776-6103.  Or, wave down the hourly VTRAN bus ($1.00) and tell the driver where you want to go.

Where To Eat
The question here is, “where to start?” The closest and easiest stop is the Concordia Café with a beautiful view of Salt Pond Bay. The café is open from 4:30-8:30. To begin, try the “Small Bites” menu served during happy hour.  The pear and gorgonzola flatbread ($14) is delicious but definitely won’t be enough to fill you up.

Open 11 to sunset, the Tourist Trap is a perfect lunch stop.  Larry, chef and owner, offers a menu inspired by his previous life in the Hamptons and his current Caribbean location.  The lobster role ($11) is a popular choice and we loved the blackened grouper sandwich ($12).  To wash it all down, get a Keep Left (as in Drink Right, Keep Left), Larry’s original drink made in homage to the many Cruzan rums available in the area (and the mainlanders’ confusion when it comes to driving on the “wrong” side of the road here).

Other well-regarded eateries include Miss Lucy’s and Skinny Legs.

Miss Lucy’s has a full moon pig roast that usually attracts a small but lively crowd and has a long history on the island (Miss Lucy’s was one of the original St. John hangouts and party spots as was the site of Tourist Trap).

Skinny Legs is the place to go for a good burger and local music.

What To Bring
Don’t even think about bringing any of your fancy electronic appliances to Concordia. You won’t find any outlets in your cabin as they all run on solar power.

If you must make phone calls invest in a calling card. The nearest vendor is a 15-minute drive away and most cellular phones don’t pick up service here.

If you are traveling during the rainy season we highly recommend bug spray, a long sleeve shirt, thick pants, and a sweater or light jacket. Oh, and pack some light colored clothing… mosquitoes are attracted to dark colors.

Make sure you bring a towel or a sarong that you can take with you to the beach; Concordia does not provide you with one. This can also double as a mosquito swatter!

As for toiletries, Concordia supplies you with eco-friendly soap (if fact, they request you use it instead of your own) but you might want to bring conditioner and shaving cream.

Finally, if you plan to eat in town note that there are no ATM’s in the vicinity, so bring cash! You don’t want be five drinks in and realize that you need to hitch a ride to the nearest money dispenser.

How To Get There
If you are “rollin’ in dough,” take a taxi from the airport to Downtown Charlotte Amelie and catch the 45-minute ferry to St. John, Cruz Bay. This will cost you $16/person. When you arrive on St. John rent a car suitable enough (approx. $60/day) to drive through the wondrous switchback roads to Concordia. Warning: you might run into donkey’s!

For all those recent job-less alumnae and money-pinchers, your route will be longer but unquestionably cheap(er). When you exit the airport ask for directions to the $2 taxi to Red Hook. You should expect a 15-minute walk from the airport to this location so remember to pack light. Note: $2 Taxi will cost more then $2 as you are going into the “country.” They are not trying to take your money.

When you arrive at Red Hook catch the 15-minute ferry to St. John, Cruz Bay.

Once at Cruz Bay you can hitchhike over to Concordia or ask someone for the $1 VTRAN bus – be patient as it runs on island time.  Alas, you have arrived!

Alexandra Garcia, Editor/Writer
Morgane Veronqiue Richardson, Editor/Writer
Bibi Jordan, Contributor

Owners Debrah and Paul Quade started the camp just three years ago and it has a welcoming family feel.  Meals are made in a common area, an open pavilion with wind-generated power, where guests socialize while they cook .

At $99 a night, the campsite costs about twenty dollars more than the Maho campsite, but for the personal attention, the casual local scene, and the eco-friendly campground its well-worth the money.

What to do
One of the things we like most about Water Island is that you don’t have to do anything.  It is totally acceptable to sit on the beach drinking bushwakers, collecting stories from passing boatmen.

For the more ambitious, there is certainly plenty to keep you busy. Take a hike up to the fort where locals come to take refuge during hurricanes.  We recommend bringing a breakfast picnic as you get a great view of the surrounding island and passing boats in the morning. We hear it’s also a good spot for a sunset drink, just make sure to bring a flashlight to get back to camp.

If you’re wiling to spend some money ($140), you can charter a sailboat to Buck Island. The captain has a reputation of being a great host and a knowledgeable guide.  On the cheaper end of things, there’s a ten-year-old boy from Water Island who has shown an entrepreneurial spirit and offers to take visitors to the best fishing spots on the island.  From what we hear it’s less eating-fish and more enjoying a day catching-and-releasing.

And if you’re coming with your children for spring break ask for Alex on the island… He does an Easter egg hunt for the local families. We hear visitors are welcomed with the usual local jovial hospitality.

As for us Honeymoon Beach? A snorkel and a $10 bill for the pizza boat is all you will need!

Where To Eat
If you are looking to spend $200 on an exceptional lobster meal served with a fine glass of pinot noir then hop back onto the Water Island ferry and get yourself a luxury villa on St. John.

Now, if you want to shake things up a bit, prepare for mind-blowing meals prepared by extraordinary individuals.

To save a few pennies, make some instant oatmeal at the Virgin Islands outdoor pavilion stove. It’s fast, filling, and there is no where else on the island to have breakfast.  Each cabin has its own private supply of clean, new place settings, and Pavilion is well-stocked with pots, pans, and coffee-maker.

After your mid-afternoon swim, grab a quick bit from the Pizza Boat on Honeymoon Beach. Fresh home-made pizza pies can be purchased for $10.

As the sun returns to its nest, enjoy a mouth-watering candlelight dinner on the beach prepared by Heidi. Her menu is impressive so make sure to make reservations far in advance; she is always booked! Menu changes weekly.

Now you want to liven things up a bit, huh? Simply stride across the beach to Joe’s Bar. Go ahead, grab yourself a frozen bushwacker and anchor down with the captains. If you are fascinating enough (or a lesbian), one of them might offer you a ride on their tall ships.

What To Bring
We have always wanted to jump on a plane with just a sarong, a bathing suit, and flip flops.  Water Island is just the place for that!

The hardest part of packing will be believing how little you need (awkward sentence). Shirts and shoes are optional wherever you eat on Water Island… just a bathing suit will do.  Note: If you to St. Thomas or St. John where residents will appreciate if you dress with a modicum of modesty

A pair of water shoes will protect your feet from broken coral and sea urchins in the tidepools. The evenings can get cool, especially during a rainstorm, so a pair of pants will come in handy as will a long-sleeved cotton t-shirt and a hoodie.

The bathroom cabinet is filled with jumbo-sized bottles of sunscreens, insect sprays, and body lotions donated by departing guests.  Each shower has a dispenser full of shampoo, conditioner, and body wash.  So, all you really need to bring is your toothbrush, toothpaste, razor and hairbrush.

You will need to bring your own groceries as there is no super market on the Island. There’’s two ways to do this: Two provision services –Pirate’s Ridge Deli (tel: 340-473-6722) or Grocery Goddess deliver advance orders. Or, buy groceries at the Marina before boarding the Water Island ferry. There’s a gourmet grocer next to Tickles Cafe, but you’ll safe a bundle by walking two blocks from the ferry to Pueblos, the local market on St. Thomas .

How To Get There
American and Continental Airlines offer nonstop flights from New York City to St. Thomas (Cyril E. King Airport).  In the midst of a recession we have found airfares for as low as $280 roundtrip in low-season (May – November). There are also nonstop flights from Philadelphia (US Airways), Miami (American Airlines) and Atlanta, (Delta Airlines).

To make your way to Water Island, take a 5 minute taxi ride ($6 per person low-season) to Charlotte Amelie and hop on the 5-minute ferry ($5 one way) to Water Island. Your hosts, Deborah and Paul Quade will come pick you up from the dock if you call them in advance.

Alexandra Garcia, Writer/Editor
Bibi Jordan, Contributor
Morgane Richardson, Writer/Editor

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